25. Three Nails

Pilgrim at Three Nails Hotel

25.

Three Nails

I find the little town crowded with Christmastime pilgrims, but there is a small cozy cell-like room for me in “The Three Nails” pilgrim's hotel with a down comforter on the bed and a hand carved cross on the wall.

There are several beautiful old churches in Altotting all bustling with Christmas activity and the little pilgrimage chapel that has been the site of countless miraculous events for centuries is filled with people of all sorts—but there are no other foreigners here to experience this I think but me.

Nightfall comes early in Mid-December and the grassy town square soon fills with expectant festive people of all ages. Excitement is in the air--something good is going to happen.

There is a bright flourish of trumpets from above and the upper balcony windows of the town hall facing the square are suddenly thrown open to reveal costumed musicians, a choir singing carols, children dressed as angels and Saint Nicholas himself in splendid white bishop’s robes with crook and miter.

The scene is so exquisite for this poor New Mexican pilgrim that he is filled to overflowing with gratitude for the privilege of probably being the lone American witness of this incredible loveliness.

Later, when the good pretend saint walks through the Christmas market pavilions that have been erected in the town square, I follow at a respectful distance enjoying his blessing of the children, townspeople and pilgrims perhaps more than any of the hundreds gathered there.

I decide that I will stop here in this perfect little Christmas town for the remaining few days of my pilgrimage time.

Tomasito, 2009


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