301. Stupa and Pie

I rent a bicycle and ride out into the countryside. There are very few motorized vehicles—maybe that’s why the air is so clean and the pace seems so “human”. Farmers are busy in the fertile- looking fields and at every turn in the country lane there is a crumbling stone temple with penetrating but sleepy-looking eyes painted on them.


I find “The Largest Stupa in the World”-- an immense white dome of solid masonry, with the same large sleepy blue eyes painted on the square tower built on top of the dome. Colorful prayer flags are fluttering in every direction from cords tied to the top of the tower. Prayer wheels-- sort of vertical bronze cylinders fixed so brushing them with the hand will spin them-- are installed in niches around the base of the dome. A saffron-robed monk gently scolds a small child who has been turning one of the prayer wheels the wrong way—unwinding someone’s prayer, no doubt!


I enjoy Nepalese food for lunch: a crispy potato pancake wrapped around some delicious curry.


In the evening I peddle my bike down to the row of pie shops near the town’s almost dry riverbed. I have heard of these pie shops from other travelers and I have been curious to see if they are as good as their reputation. I open the door of the first shop in the row, “The Upper Crust Pie Shop”, and am confronted by a by a table laden with beautiful cakes and pies. Oh, my goodness! Take your pick. One thick slice with hot milk tea for two rupees! There is peach, apple, berry, lemon meringue and banana cream pie, angle’s food, devil’s food and vanilla cake—all right from the oven!


A stoned hippy is smiling in a corner over a wedge of pineapple pie and a straight tourist in shorts is getting into some chocolate cake. I take a slice of the supreme pie, pecan!


There is no rush. When I have eaten my fill I pay the thin, businesslike boy in change and wander out into the peaceful evening. Children are playing in a fountain with carved stone faces. I am reminded of the fuente pre-Hispanico in Colombia. Though very different, this place has the same good vibes.

...