154.
We cross town to see the famous big, cavelike Mosque of Muhammad Ali. It is cool inside and a fine echo is playing with the several simultaneous tour guides’ voices.
Even Doc, a hardened materialist, notices the “healing vibes” as she calls them, of the place.
When we ask the doorkeeper for directions to a nearby place to eat, he leads us to a literal “hole in the mosque wall” where a tiny old man with bright blue eyes tends a tea kettle and friendly bubble-pipe. He puts some burning charcoal bits on the bright yellow tobacco leaves in the pipe bowl for us and then demonstrates the proper bellows-like puffing technique appropriate for enjoying the smoke. We enjoy the experience and our hosts get a big laugh out of us trying their pipe—especially the Doc, who really puffs at it!
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