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Before my eyes now are two polished black stones, which may or may not have been the very capstones of two pyramids. Surrounding me are dozens of stone coffins, monumental statues of humans and gods and in special rooms nearby, artifacts from young king Tut’s tomb: so thank you, mothers and fathers of the old times and present-day keepers of the flame.
~~~~~
Stepping from the museum’s dusty gloom: present-day almost unbearable Cairo: impassable, motionless traffic; drivers leaning on their horns, trolleys clanging, bike bells jangling, people shouting and it’s hot as a firecracker.
Many of the stores have patriotic displays in their windows celebration their great “October Victory”. I am out of touch with the military triumphs and tragedies of the Egyptians but I think this may refer to their recent reconquest of the Suez Canal Zone. Stubby brick walls built in front of doorways to stop bomb fragments are also reminders of war, but the people seem relaxed and happy. There are few uniforms on the streets and no visible tanks or weapons.
There is a toilet paper shortage in Cairo. No stores have any for sale. The only TP we find is in the rest rooms of the Cairo Hilton, which must be flown in especially for their prosperous guests. Every tourist (and there are lots!) steals his or her TP from the Hilton. The Hilton also shelters the American Express office where you can cash traveler’s checks and maybe collect mail and several excellent, but expensive, restaurants. Thanks, Hilton.
This TP shortage is no problem for real desert-folks anyway because they use their left hand and a little water if there is any to spare to take care of their personal hygiene, which is why we travelers are warned never to offer our left hand to take or to give anything. The left hand is kind of taboo for any practical purpose in Egypt so it is best to sort of keep it in your pocket to avoid offense. I don't know what "lefties” do.
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