18. Chiapas Town Park

18.

Every night a carnival with midway rides, beer pavilions, and burlesque shows takes place right under my window.

I prowl the village around the clock and get quite caught up by the festive mood. There are no other tourists here. I am the only foreigner to hear and see this display. I have lived in Hawaii so long—where only “professional natives” perform all the folkloric activities and shows for the tourist dollar—that the idea of ordinary people doing fun, entertaining things just for themselves seems extraordinary!

So, in spite of the outrageous racket, I find this fortnight refreshing.

I meet one of the young musicians who plays with a local rock group called “Moses and the Resurrection”. He tells me he was with his girl last night in the Town Park and thought it was the most beautiful place on earth. Today, without the girl, he sees that the park is really desolate and filthy.

They walked together in the park
So green and fragrant in the dark;
Today the park is dusty brown—
He’s sitting in it all alone.

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