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Touring the Peninsula:
During my fifth week at Saint Anne’s, Father Athanasius suggested that I take a few days off and walk around the Holy Mountain peninsula to see what the other monasteries are like and to get a more general view of the land. Though my life at Saint Anne’s was far from boring, I thought it would be interesting to see some of the other monasteries, so I willingly went.
Free meals and lodging are provided for pilgrims at all the monasteries, so I didn’t need to carry anything except water and a snack. The footpaths are occasionally marked so it would be difficult to get lost and any sort of crime–robbery or any such molestation of pilgrims is absolutely unheard of. There are no predatory animals, snakes or poisonous plants. This is one of the few places on earth where you can walk without fear.
Father Athanasius gave me a simple map showing where the major monasteries are. Saint Anne’s is on the southwestern side of Holy Mountain near the tip of the peninsula, so. I decided to go around the southern cape of the peninsula to Great Lavra, one of the oldest and largest of the monasteries. Most of the Greek pilgrims go by boat from monastery to monastery, but I preferred to go by foot in order to really get to know the countryside. Besides, it is an easy walk of only a few hours between monasteries..
Hiking on undemanding dirt paths is one of things I dearly love, and the Holy Mountain trails, though sometimes a little stony and rough, are seldom out of the sight of the sea and are always interesting.
I left early in the morning and arrived at Great Lavra in time for lunch. I checked in with the Guest Master, ate quickly and, since I am a library enthusiast, immediately went in search of the legendary library since I had heard that there is an unequaled collection of ancient manuscripts here.
Great Lavra is as large as a small town, but, just like Kyries, there seems to be no one around. Oddly enough, it takes me the better part of the afternoon to even find the library which turns out to be closed. But I do eventually meet another American pilgrim who is here with his fifteen-year-old son. The American is Orthodox and is fulfilling a vow he made when his son was born: to bring him to this sacred place. He told me the high point of his pilgrimage occurred this morning when his son was allowed to hold and look thru a manuscript completed in 800 AD.
Great Lavra is certainly impressive, but I like the small, more personal, friendly and “homey” Hagia Anna much better.
Tomasito, 2009
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