Pilgrimage to Holy Mountain 15

15

Saint Anne’s Monastery:

Hagia Anna is near the larger monasteries of Gregoriou and Dionysiou on the southwestern side of the Holy Mountain peninsula, but you won’t find it on the usual maps of Holy Mountain, probably because it is too small and unimportant.

It is situated on a precipitous cliff perhaps three hundred feet above the sea near the end of the peninsula. The cliff itself is a part of the steep mountainside which continues to rise above it to the hidden summit of Holy Mountain.

Hagia Anna presents a bizarre, fantastic and beautiful sight to those approaching as we did on the calm sea far below.

We pilgrims and a few cases of supplies are put ashore at a small wooden dock at the foot of the great cliff and the boat soon continues on its way to service other monasteries.

We pilgrims scramble together up a steep footpath following a dry gully. The hike is a strenuous and hot exertion for myself and the other four or five pilgrims from the motorboat--all of them Greeks and all apparently townsmen on pilgrimage/holiday wearing slacks, dress shirts and polished shoes. After a forty-five minute climb we arrive sweating and panting before the stone walls of the monastery.

We are greeted at the heavy wooden gate by a black-bearded monk wearing a full-length black robe, a black brimless cap and leather sandals. We are invited in and asked to sit in a plain but comfortable waiting room. Soon w e are served great pitchers of iced water, Turkish Delight candies and for each, a small glass of arrack,

Then we are led to a clean, airy dormitory room and are assigned beds for the night.

The abbot, Father Athanasius, soon appears. He welcomes all of us warmly, noting me especially I think and using excellent English to welcome me. Since I am nothing special, I think this is very gracious of him.

Father Athanasius is a youngish looking man–perhaps younger than forty years old--and he appears to be very vigorous and healthy. His black clothing is no different from the other monks’ but he seems to bear himself with the authority and self confidence of a leader of men. He has the usual black beard and eyebrows of the classic Greek and his dark eyes are particularly bright and clear.

He is rather surprised that I paid for my first night’s lodging in Kyries since all food and lodging–at all the monasteries–are provided free to all pilgrims. I never knew this so I stayed at the only lodging on the entire peninsula which charges a fee for bed and board!

He gives me the welcome news that he will extend my stay for a week and after that we can discuss further extensions–if I need more time to “discover” the place.

I take the rest of the afternoon to explore the old church and the monastery quarters, then join the monks and pilgrims in the refectory for dinner-–fried fish with tomatoes and eggplant, bread and olive oil (instead of butter), and pure ice water to drink. The night falls softly; warm, peaceful and absolutely silent– -there are no radios, TVs, computers, canned music or traffic noise on Holy Mountain. Gratefully I sleep.

Tomasito, 2009



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