20.
At sunset the entire population of the village gathers on the bank of the river to view the famous “combate naval”.
A brass band plays and some dignitaries make speeches. Soon little model canoes blazing with fireworks come drifting around a bend in the river. People nearby explain to me that these boats represent a flotilla of wild Indians. A battery of cannon on the opposite shore from the spectators begins to fire at the canoes. These cannoneers represent Spanish soldiers.
The Indian canoes blow up and sink one by one while the people on the shore, who look like Indians to me, cheer for the great Spanish victory. Everybody wants to be one of the winners!
This evening there are two other tourists witnessing this battle, a wealthy couple from California who have rented a house in a nearby village. They invite me to come with them to visit their San Cristobal de las Casas home. They have a nice new car and since I have no other plan I go with them.
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